Dealing with Racism in a Foreign Country

(cross-posted at Rachel's Tavern)

At one point in my life, I needed to take my Spanish to fluency level in order to accomplish an important goal. I spent a year working to save money in order to go to a private immersion school in a Latin American country. I picked the capital of Costa Rica, San José. I wanted to stay in a relatively big city, and I was worried the smaller towns famous for language schools in Mexico and Guatemala would have so many other Americans that the immersion wouldn't be as effective.

The school lasted 9 weeks, 8 hours a day. I was placed with a Costa Rican family. My señora was an older woman living with her adult son. They had a beautiful house in the suburbs. My boarding price included a breakfast and dinner. Breakfast was often a fried pork chop accompanied by rice and beans and a vegetable, with a side of fresh tropical fruit, a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice and a steaming thermos of world-famous Costa Rican coffee. The first time she presented me with this spread, it was pretty intimidating. But I ate every delicious bite, thanked the señora and staggered off to school.

Some of my American fellow students drove me crazy. There was a teenager who kept complaining about the breakfasts. She made her señora fix her a special breakfast: Captain Crunch cereal. Then she complained because her señora wasn't fixing it right. The cereal was too soggy. So she made the señora wait to put the cereal into the milk until the exact proper moment.

I didn't want to be an ugly American. I tried to understand the customs of daily life, and did some research before I went. I also knew from living in Miami that people would call me "chinita" or "Chinese girl" without regard for my real ethnicity, but that "chinita" didn't carry the same negative baggage as it would in the U.S. In my own country there's a thin but persistent layer of enmity towards Asians, based on a long history of immigration scares, economic competition, and wars. That history wasn't the same in Costa Rica, obviously. Asians were simply stereotyped as "exotic" and "foreign". It was actually a breath of fresh air. I had to deal with being "foreign", and I had to deal with explaining that yes, I really was an American even though I didn't look like one. Nothing especially difficult or painful.

I didn't think about other racial stereotypes, but I had a rude awakening.

In class, we were doing a unit based on cartoons and jokes. We were shown cartoons and asked to comment on them. It was going well. Then I turned the page of the photocopied course packet for the next cartoon. There was a black boy with exaggerated black features, crying, sitting by the side of the road next to huge watermelon slice. An older man (white/criollo) asks him, "why are you crying, negrito"? The boy says something like, "there's too much watermelon and not enough negrito".

It was horribly offensive. I went to the teacher right away. It was hard for me to articulate myself in Spanish, so I switched to English, which the teacher spoke very well. I told her, "this is a terrible cartoon, it's very offensive to black people. It really needs to be taken out of the course packet."

The teacher smiled and chuckled. She explained several things. In the U.S., we had lots of problems with race relations. Even riots! But things just weren't the same in Costa Rica. In her country, black and white people got along. In fact, she had an in-law who was part black. No black Costa Rican would see anything wrong with that cartoon. How would I know it was offensive, when I myself wasn't black? What's wrong with enjoying watermelon?

She was implying, very politely, that I shouldn't be an ugly American. I was imposing my own ideas about race relations in a realm where I was ignorant.

I'd lost some clarity, but I stayed on track. If I couldn't win the argument on moral grounds, I'd switch to practical.

"I'm sorry I can’t explain why it's so offensive. But if you have a black student from the United States, and they see the cartoon, I promise you they'll be very offended. In fact, they'd probably ask for their money back and say bad things about the school when they got back home."

That did the trick. The teacher promised to remove the cartoon from the next course packet.

I felt bad about going this route and, in essence, threatening their livelihood. The teachers were women with multiple degrees in the humanities, who worked harder, for much less pay, than their U.S. equivalents. Costa Rica has a high standard of living for the region, but America is a much more powerful country and casts a large shadow.

My guilt didn't last long. I found out that everything the teacher told me about black Costa Ricans was wrong. When I went to the black Caribbean coast (which every criollo Costa Rican warned me against doing) and actually met black Costa Ricans, I realized that Costa Rican society was extremely segregated. There was strong institutionalized racism against black people. The tourist dollars were diverted from their beaches; their language (English patois) was disparaged and dying out.

The most graphic illustration I had of this flavor of racism was in another part of Costa Rica, when I was watching television next to a friend of my señora.

They were showing a Richard Pryor movie on TV. She quickly changed the channel and said, in a normal conversational tone, "I don't like black people. I don't know why, I just don't. My mother was the same way!"

I maintained a stunned silence. I didn't say anything, because the woman was much older than me, and I felt physically incapable of confronting her. I just sat there, confused, frustrated, depressed, inadequate and culpable.

So my attempts at dealing with anti-black racism in Costa Rica were definitely a mixed bag: one partial success, one abject failure.

It's very difficult determining where to intervene or how to stand when it comes to unfamiliar forms of racism. People defending American racism (or denying that it exists) often point to other countries and say, triumphantly, "well, they're just as racist!" When done from an unquestioning perspective, condemning the practices of other countries has little effect other than asserting American moral superiority.

I still believe it has to be tried.

I learned a lot about racism in my own country from traveling and living in Latin America. In parallel, the most insightful accounts of racism in Korea and Japan have been the ones I've read from African-Americans. Different forms of racism are often not as separate and distinct as they first seem, and comparing them shows the weak spots where they can be challenged.